Homage Forum

toofsy wrote: ↑July 7th, 2021, 9:55 am I started to adapt my cortebert 592r in this case according to the @kpoy 's advices. I had to remove the lip on the baseplate.

But as I'm too impatient, I haven't disassembled the mouvement to reduce his outside diameter with sand paper
In fact I protected both faces with HW plexi and tape... it sounds good and and seems to be clean the 592r still running well

Wow

Regarding sanding base plate with complete movement intact,@toofsy it makes me feel better that others think like me

@Yoda and @unreformed66 will cringe.

However, I have progressed to removing the wheel while trimming the seconds hand pinion.

Unreformed mentioned he has seen movements that looked like a metal grenade went off. (from trimming second hand on movement.)

mountaineer wrote:Regarding sanding base plate with complete movement intact,[mention]toofsy[/mention] it makes me feel better that others think like me

[mention]Yoda[/mention] and [mention]unreformed66[/mention] will cringe.

However, I have progressed to removing the wheel while trimming the seconds hand pinion.

Unreformed mentioned he has seen movements that looked like a metal grenade went off. (from trimming second hand on movement.)

Thanks to validate the process....
I haven't yet touch the second hand pignon, i think I will have to use a safer process...

The first time I ever tried removing the second hand pinion, i did it like that (nipping and sanding) and it did not go well. Metallic dust must have gotten in and no matter how low I trimmed it, the pressure of the dial pressing onto the base would stop the movement. Basically I made a mess and the movement was never the same. That movement is now used for donor parts.

I later learned how easy it was to remove one of the bridges. All you need is a good set of screwdrivers.
https://www.rwg.bz/board/index.php?/top ... -movement/

mountaineer wrote: ↑June 16th, 2021, 10:34 pm

Mike08 wrote: ↑June 16th, 2021, 10:25 pm Wow that looks already awesome!
Thank you for sharing this project!
The dial is stunning, crown puts the case to the next level (where do i get this?)
What about the spring bars from athaya?

The crown is from rafflestime.com or raffledials.com. It is not as nice as Athaya's 8mm crown (by a lot) but it fit the existing crown tube on the case. Also, I had it unused in my watch supplies. I think it might need an adaptor to fit 6497 stem.

I will look at Athaya's site for spring bars.

@mountaineer Do you know if an adaptor was needed in the end to fit the 6497 stem?

WoW good job C. My Ali case recently arrived this thread will be very helpful for my build. Thanks

@papabear244 you will need a stem adapter to use the raffles crown. That crown takes a .9mm stem thread. A standard 6497 stem thread is 1.2mm.

Athaya's 8mm crown will take a 1.2mm stem and is a higher quality. However, I think you will will need to thread tap the case.

I've gone a bit crazy and bought three cases,one I didn't check the details of and it's got a PVD coating that doesn't look as bad as I feared it might. The Ali 6497 movement stems are obviously too long,has anyone counted the number of threads that need to be trimmed?

@frenchy see link for how to measure and cut a stem.

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=113

Thanks for the link, I'm being lazy and keeping my blood pressure in mind. As the Ali cases are so popular I thought someone who'd done one recently might know the measurement. I don't have a professional gauge and if I do invest in one there is the danger I'll start buying more cases to "play with" hence the blood pressure concerns.